Outlet installation, even the one-outlet jobs.
Dead outlet in the kitchen? Dryer that needs a 4-prong? A room one extension cord short of safe? That's our work, even when it's a 30-minute job. You get a fixed price first. We do the outlet you called about, and we leave the rest of your house alone.
GFCI where code requires
Kitchen counters, baths, garages, basements, outdoor, laundry — NEC 210.8 requires GFCI on every receptacle in these locations. Most NoVA homes built before 1996 have at least one location missing GFCI. We add them per code on every permitted project.
240V circuits done right
NEMA 14-30 for modern 30-amp dryers. NEMA 14-50 for ranges and EV chargers. We don't reuse legacy NEMA 10-30 (3-prong) outlets on replacement work where NEC requires 4-prong. 240V outlets get tested under load before we leave the install.
Single-outlet jobs welcome
Most contractors won't dispatch a crew for one outlet. It's too small, too quick. We will. We charge a diagnostic visit fee, and we don't upsell what you don't need. We want the next call — when your panel acts up, when you finish the basement, when the neighbor needs an EV charger.
Which outlet problem brought you here?
Most folks who call us about outlets are in one of these three spots. Each one is a small job. Each one gets the same care we'd put into a panel replacement. Detailed pages are on the way. Until then, here's what each job looks like.
GFCI Outlet Installation
Kitchen counter GFCI, bathroom GFCI, garage GFCI, outdoor GFCI, basement GFCI. NEC 210.8 covers every required location. We install Class A GFCI devices, test the trip current on every install, and verify the reset behavior. Most installs done in 30-45 minutes per outlet.
240V Outlet Installation
NEMA 14-30 for dryers, NEMA 14-50 for ranges and EV chargers, NEMA 6-30 for window AC. Each requires a dedicated 240V circuit from the panel. We size the circuit per NEC 220 load calc, verify the panel has headroom, and tell you up front if a panel upgrade is needed.
Adding Outlets to a Room
Adding 1-4 new outlets to a room that doesn't have enough — common in older NoVA homes built when one outlet per wall was the standard. We can fish wires through finished walls in most cases, minimizing drywall patching. NEC 210.52 receptacle-spacing rules apply for any room renovated to current code.
Outlet and switch projects across Northern Virginia
What getting your outlet fixed actually looks like
An outlet job is the smallest thing we do. It runs the same four steps as a panel replacement, just faster. Most single-outlet installs take under an hour. A few outlets in a room is usually a half-day. Here's how each one goes.
Phone quote or quick consultation
For single GFCI or fixture-style outlets, we can often quote by phone with a few photos. For 240V or adding outlets to a finished room, we walk on-site.
Written quote, no upsell
The quote is the quote. If the job turns out to be a simple GFCI swap, we don't "find" additional work we have to do — we charge what we quoted. Other questions get answered at no charge.
Install
Most single-outlet installs done in 30-60 minutes per outlet. We use Leviton Decora or equivalent quality outlets, tamper-resistant per NEC 406.12. 240V circuits tested under load before we leave.
Verification + next-call mindset
GFCI test buttons verified. 240V outlets tested with a load tester. And we mean it: save our number — when your panel acts up, when you finish the basement, when the neighbor needs an EV charger, we want to be the first call.
Questions homeowners ask about outlet work
How much does a single GFCI outlet installation cost?
A standard GFCI outlet replacement in a properly-rated existing box is a quick, fixed-fee job we quote upfront before any work starts. Most installs are done in 30-45 minutes. If the existing wiring isn't sound (older homes with ungrounded circuits or backstabbed connections), we quote the additional work before we touch anything.
The variables that move price: box condition (corroded boxes need replacement), wiring condition (knob-and-tube or ungrounded two-wire circuits need different treatment), and whether we're adding a new GFCI on a circuit that didn't have one (different from replacing an existing one). A real-estate-inspection-correction GFCI install — where an inspector flagged a missing GFCI in a kitchen, bath, or garage — is the most common single-outlet job we do. We charge a diagnostic visit fee for first-time-visit calls, credited toward the work if you book it.
My GFCI keeps tripping. Do I need a new outlet or is something else wrong?
A repeatedly-tripping GFCI usually means one of three things: a real ground fault somewhere on the circuit (water in an outdoor box, a worn appliance cord, a damaged extension cord), the GFCI itself has failed (common after 10-15 years), or too many appliances on the circuit. We diagnose during the visit and tell you which it is before recommending a replacement.
The diagnostic process: we trip-test the GFCI to verify it's responding to fault simulation, check downstream connections for moisture or damage, and test the circuit under load. Most of the time, the GFCI itself has failed — replacement is straightforward. Sometimes the fault is real and points to a damaged outdoor receptacle, a failing appliance, or wiring issues that need broader correction. We don't recommend wiring corrections unless we've confirmed the actual problem. We're not a national chain trying to squeeze every dollar from a single visit.
Can you add outlets to a finished room without making a mess?
Usually yes. For a typical finished room, we can fish wires through walls in most cases — small patches where a stud bay needs to be opened, but no major drywall demo. For multi-outlet adds (4+ in a single room), we walk on-site to scope it. Some wall types (cement, brick, or plaster-and-lath) need more invasive access.
The variable is wall type and direction. Standard drywall on stud framing with attic or basement access is the easiest — wires run from above or below. Drywall on stud framing without overhead or below-floor access requires running wires through stud bays, which sometimes means opening a small access hole at the top or bottom of the wall. Plaster ceilings or brick interior walls are the hardest and may require more visible patches. We tell you up front during the consultation which patches to expect.
What's the difference between a 3-prong and 4-prong dryer outlet?
The 3-prong dryer outlet (NEMA 10-30) is the legacy standard from before 1996. NEC now requires the 4-prong (NEMA 14-30) for all new dryer installs — the 4th prong is a dedicated equipment ground separate from the neutral. Existing 3-prong outlets are grandfathered and can be used with 3-prong dryer cords, but swapping for a new dryer install means upgrading to 4-prong.
The technical reason: in older 3-prong installs, the neutral conductor doubled as the ground for the dryer frame. If the neutral connection failed, the dryer frame could become energized at line voltage — a real shock and fire hazard. The 4-prong standard separates these functions for safety. Upgrading involves running a new 4-conductor cable from the panel (the old 3-conductor wire can't simply be re-terminated). For most NoVA homes, the upgrade adds 1-2 hours to a dryer-outlet install.
Do you charge for the initial consultation on a small outlet job?
For first-time-visit diagnostic work (a GFCI that keeps tripping, an outlet that doesn't work, a buzzing switch), we charge a diagnostic visit fee — credited toward the work if you book it. For scheduled installs (you tell us what you want, we quote it, we come install it), there's no separate consultation charge. We quote the install over the phone or via email after a few photos.
The diagnostic fee covers the real cost of dispatching a licensed electrician to your home to figure out what's wrong. Most contractors either charge nothing (and recoup it by upselling) or charge a higher fee with no credit toward work. We charge a fair fee, credit it toward the work, and don't upsell. It's the customer-for-life model: we'd rather earn your next 10 years of electrical calls than maximize one visit.
What an outlet job often turns up next door
An outlet call has a way of surfacing the next thing. A panel that's out of room. A switch that should be a dimmer. An EV charger the driveway's been waiting for. Here's where those threads lead.
Got one outlet that's been bugging you? Let's just get it handled.
Free phone quote on most single-outlet jobs. Diagnostic visit fee, credited toward the work. The same standards on a $200 GFCI install as on a $50,000 basement finish.