New windows leaking after a few winters? Siding cupping or pulling loose? It's almost never the brand on the box. It's how it went on. We install windows, doors, and siding the way the warranty actually requires, so the weather stays out.
Windows run $800-$5,000+ each installed, a front door $2K-$12K+, siding $15K-$90K+ depending on material and scope. When a project touches two or three of these - the common case on a whole-exterior refresh - you get one contract, one crew, and one schedule instead of juggling separate trades.
When an exterior job fails, it's almost never the product. It's how it went on. Bad flashing lets water in. A skipped layer behind the siding traps moisture in the wall. We follow the maker's install guide step by step, because that's the line between an install that lasts 25 years and one that's leaking in 5. The brand matters far less than the crew putting it on.
Most window, door, and siding work in NoVA needs a building permit. New windows get an extra efficiency review on top. You don't have to chase any of it. We pull every permit the job needs, spec windows that meet the local efficiency rules, and stay on the job until the inspector signs off.
Most projects start with one of three things wearing out: the windows, the front door, or the siding. Plenty of folks tackle two or three at once while the crew's already here. Detailed pages for each are coming in Wave 2. Until then, here's the typical scope, the brands we reach for, and what the work involves.
Andersen 400 Series, Pella Lifestyle, Marvin Elevate for most NoVA homes. Top-tier: Andersen A-Series, Marvin Signature, Pella Architect Reserve. Typical scope: $800-$2,500 per window mid-range, $2,500-$5,000+ top-tier. Full-frame replacement (most thorough - removes existing frame entirely) or insert/pocket replacement (faster, reuses existing frame if it's sound). We assess and recommend during consultation.
Therma-Tru, ProVia, Andersen, Pella for front entry doors. Fiberglass is the most common modern residential door - better than steel for thermal, better than wood for maintenance. Typical scope: $2K-$5K mid-range, $5K-$12K+ top-tier custom. Storm doors, sliding patio doors, interior pass-through doors all part of door scope.
James Hardie (fiber cement, 30-50 year lifespan) is our top-tier recommendation. LP SmartSide (engineered wood) is the mid-range alternative. Vinyl siding for budget projects. Typical scope: $15K-$40K vinyl, $25K-$60K LP SmartSide, $40K-$90K+ Hardie for whole-house. Most NoVA siding projects are whole-house replacement (color uniformity matters); some are partial residing.
Once the materials are in, the install moves fast. A window or door opening takes 1-3 days. Whole-house siding runs 2-4 weeks, depending on the size of the house. The wait is mostly up front: usually 4-8 weeks to pull the permit and get your windows or siding ordered before we start.
We measure openings, assess existing condition (frame rot, water-damage signs, original install quality), and discuss brand and tier preferences. For siding: we walk the perimeter, identify problem areas, and discuss color and material options.
Itemized: product cost (specific brand and model), labor, flashing and sealing materials, permit, debris removal. Within 3-5 business days. Good for 30 days.
Permit pulled and materials ordered (windows typically 4-8 week lead time; siding 2-6 weeks). Once materials arrive: 1-3 days per window opening; whole-house siding 2-4 weeks. The same crew that started your exterior is the crew that finishes it.
Permitted inspections signed off. We walk every installation point with you - show you flashing integration, demonstrate window operation, verify door swing and sealing. Manufacturer warranty documentation handed over.
Here's the straight answer to what folks ask us most before they start - which brand, which siding, and whether they need a permit. The short version on every one: the install matters more than the label.
For most NoVA homes: Andersen 400 Series or Pella Lifestyle in the mid-range (around $1,000-$2,000 per window installed). Marvin Elevate if you prefer aluminum-clad wood. For top-tier projects: Andersen A-Series, Marvin Signature, or Pella Architect Reserve. All three brands are ENERGY STAR-certified for Climate Zone 4 in their standard configurations. The brand matters less than the installer's commitment to manufacturer-spec installation.
The honest answer: at the price point most homeowners are comparing (Andersen 400 vs Pella Lifestyle vs Marvin Elevate), brand performance is essentially equivalent. They're all good products with similar warranties (around 20 years). The variables that matter for your decision: aesthetic preference (Andersen's casement profile vs Pella's vs Marvin's), color and finish options, interior wood vs vinyl preference, and installer-brand familiarity (an installer who does mostly Andersen does Andersen installations better than they'd do Marvin). We're comfortable with all three. The top-tier lines (A-Series, Signature, Architect Reserve) add aesthetic refinement plus better thermal performance for cold-climate-focused homes.
For most NoVA homeowners: James Hardie fiber cement is the top-tier standard - 30-50 year lifespan, fire-resistant, doesn't expand or contract with temperature, holds paint exceptionally well. LP SmartSide is the mid-range alternative - engineered wood, lighter weight, easier installation, lower cost. Both significantly outperform vinyl. Vinyl is the budget tier - 15-25 year lifespan, lower upfront cost.
Honest comparison: Hardie costs 20-30% more than LP SmartSide installed but lasts 5-10 years longer. Hardie is heavier (different installation requirements, more fasteners). LP SmartSide is easier to work with, lighter, and has a faster install - but engineered wood needs more careful cut-edge sealing. For Climate Zone 4 NoVA, both perform well. We recommend Hardie for forever homes and longest-lifespan projects; LP SmartSide for 15-20-year-ownership horizons or budget-conscious projects. Vinyl is fine for budget projects or rental property - performance is acceptable, lifespan shorter, appearance plainer.
Full-frame replacement (entire frame removed, new flashing installed) is more thorough - it removes hidden water damage and ensures proper modern flashing. Insert/pocket replacement (reuses existing frame) is faster and cheaper but only appropriate when the existing frame is sound. For homes 20+ years old with no known frame issues: insert often works fine. For homes with any frame rot or water-damage signs: full-frame is required.
During the consultation, we inspect existing frame condition from inside and outside, check for hidden rot or water staining, and recommend based on findings. Full-frame typically costs 30-50% more per window than insert (additional labor plus flashing materials) but is the only path that addresses underlying water-management failures. For top-tier projects we usually recommend full-frame regardless of existing-frame condition because it ensures modern flashing integration. For budget projects where existing frames are sound, insert is the right call.
In most NoVA jurisdictions: yes for window replacement, sometimes simplified. Whole-window replacements typically require building permits. Door replacements in the same opening usually don't require permits (existing opening, no structural change). Siding replacement requires permits in most jurisdictions because it triggers energy-code review for the underlying weather-resistive barrier. We pull every required permit.
Permit specifics vary: Prince William and Fairfax require window replacement permits with an energy-code worksheet (U-factor and SHGC compliance for Climate Zone 4). Arlington and Alexandria have similar requirements. Most independent cities follow the same pattern. Door replacements within the existing opening are often exempt because there's no envelope change. Whole-house siding replacement triggers a building permit plus sometimes architectural-review-board approval in HOA neighborhoods. We handle all permits and HOA submissions.
Per opening: 1-3 hours for a standard window, 2-4 hours for a door. For a whole-house window replacement (15-25 windows), we typically complete 4-6 windows per day - the full project takes 3-7 days depending on count and complexity. Doors: one entry door per day if it includes new threshold and sill work. Whole-house siding: 2-4 weeks.
The variables: (1) full-frame vs insert (full-frame takes 2-4x longer per opening due to flashing installation), (2) opening type (standard double-hung is fastest; specialty shapes - bay windows, transoms, large picture windows - take longer), (3) interior trim condition (replacing interior casing adds time), (4) exterior condition (siding patch-back after full-frame replacement varies). We give you a written schedule during the proposal so you know exactly which openings get done which days.
A new front door is the natural moment to wire a smart lock or video doorbell; an addition needs its windows and siding to match what's already there; and new windows often mean fresh interior trim. Here's what tends to come along with exterior work.
We'll come take a look, free. Then you get a written, itemized proposal within 3-5 business days. Whatever brand you land on, we install it the way that makes it last - not just the way that's quick.